Tag: Ardnamurchan

Round Britain: Ardnamurchan to Tralee

On By Carol HenshawIn Beaches, Ferries & boats, ScotlandLeave a comment

On our last night in Ardnamurchan we had dinner in the Kilchoan House Hotel. On our honeymoon in 1987 we had a meal there and when the people at the next table found out, they gave us a bottle of champagne. This time the unexpected discovery was that the waiter who served us was from Tasmania. Along with the Red Centre, they are the only places in Australia we have not visited. The next morning was wet but it cleared up as we left and continued eastbound on the B8007. It turns inland and we saw huge areas of peat cuttings drying to be used. The road then descends to the shore and just past Salen we joined the A861. At Strontian, near the head of Loch Sunart.

We had coffee and the guy serving us in the café said that they had been badly hit by the failure of the Corran Ferry. It crosses the Corran Narrows, one of the oldest trade routes in Scotland. The first car ferry arrived in 1935. Before that, farmers had to swim their cattle across the water on the way to market. Currently the ferry has been out of action like many of those to the isles in Scotland. At the moment it is just a passenger ferry with no vehicles allowed. The road continued up Glen Tarbet where we were back on a two-lane road. It then runs down and crosses the River Gour and runs alongside Loch Linnhe. At Ardgour

we passed the ferry terminal but had to continue on the 44 mile detour up Loch Linnhe.

Before we turned into Loch Eil we had views across to Fort William.

We were back on a single track road until we got past Loch Eil and rejoined the A830. Just south of Fort William on the A82 we got stopped by the police and asked to turn round with all the other vehicles because a wide load was coming. Fortunately, we found a layby and had our lunch until it had passed. We then crossed over the Ballachulish Bridge and continued on the A828. Just south of Keil we left Lochaber and entered Argyll and Bute. We passed through Appin and Castle Stalker which is privately owned and the ferry terminal for Lismore. Across the Greagan Bridge we  arrived at Loch Creran and continued on the road for a few more miles until just before Benderloch we arrived at Tralee and our campsite. The last time I was here was in the early 1970s when we used to have family camping holidays here. I had a walk on the quiet beach after we had settled in.

Just behind the campsite is some deciduous woodland

where bluebells are in flower.

Round Britain: Arisaig to Ardnamuchan

On By Carol HenshawIn Ferries & boats, Scotland1 Comment

The evening before we left Arisaig I watched the sun go down from the beach.

The following morning was calm and sunny when we departed. After following the A380 to Lochailort, we took the A861 which runs down the side of Loch Ailort.

Like many roads in Scotland, it is bordered with woodland containing purple rhododendrons. They were first introduced into Scotland in the 1700s and have become the most invasive plant. The road descends to the Sound of Arisaig which has views over to Eigg and Rhum.

Further on it ascends Glen Uig and then runs down to Loch Moidart.

Near Kinlochmoidart several kayakers were getting ready to get into the still water. The road then continues up Drynie Hill before descending past Dalnabreck and Mingarry Park (which has a wild venison shop)  to Shiel Bridge which sits at the foot of the Five Sisters of Kintail mountains.  After crossing the bridge, we stopped at Acharacle for a coffee. We then continued to Salen and Loch Sunart. Beyond Laga and Glenborrodale is Ardnamurchan Distillery.

The road then turned inland and descends to Kilchoan. Several classic cars passed us on the way down who were presumably heading to an event. Before settling into the campsite, we drove out to the lighthouse at the most westerly point on the British mainland.

 The lighthouse was built in 1849 by Alan Stevenson in an Egyptian style. It is 36 metres high. There is a café and you can take a tour to the top of the building

or just admire the views.

We settled into our campsite at Ormsaigbeg which lies to the west of the main village. The last time we were in Kilchoan was our honeymoon in 1987. The next morning, we walked towards the centre. There are views across to Mull from the road and we then entered Kilchoan Bay where the jetty is located. Small boats and kayaks use this.

Further on, past the road to the lighthouse, is the school and the road down to the pier. Pier Road passes the community centre which has a café and then descends to Mingary Pier where the ferry runs to Tobermory on Mull. One had just left as we got there.

There was an interesting information board about the geology of Ardnamurchan. It is comprised of three overlapping rings from three volcanic centres. There are plenty of volcanic rocks around.  

Just before we left, we heard James Crawford talking about his latest book: Wild History: journeys into lost Scotland at Toppings Bookshop in Edinburgh. The only place in Ardnamurchan in the book is a Viking boat burial in Swordle Bay on the north coast of the peninsula. He says that the name Swordle is derived from a Norse word for ‘green valley. The Vikings arrived at some point in the 10th century and buried the boat and one dead member. This was not discovered until 2011. We will not be able to get round there on this trip.